Halloween is just days away, and while it is a fun-filled holiday, there are some precautions your should take for your four legged friends so the festivities are enjoyable for them too!
Just because you have animals does not mean that you have to forgo the holiday, it just means that you need to be proactive to ensure that the fun doesn't turn in to a horror!
Decorations:
Decorating for any holiday is a family event in our house! Whatever the holiday, we do it up BIG! However we are cautious where we display decorations. With both cats and dogs in our household, we make sure to keep strings & plastic (including fake spider webs, costume pieces, candy wrappers, etc.), electrical cords, and small dangling objects out of reach of our pets. These objects could cause an intestinal blockage or an electrical shock - and that's not any fun!
Costumes:
If you follow us on Facebook, you know that we LOVE dressing the dogs up in costumes for photos! But costumes on strange humans that ring our doorbell once a year can be scary to most family pets - even if the dog knows the child. Many costumes obscure facial features, making it difficult for a dog to realize that the "monster" at the door is really just a child.
And many young children are afraid of dogs - especially a barking dog that is spooked by the stranger at the door...
So be respectful of your dogs (and cats!) - give them dinner a little early and settle them in for an early bedtime. Give them refuge in a room away from the front door and turn on a radio, tv, or fan to muffle the noise at your door.
Candy:
All I can say is YUM!!! - if you are a human. While most chocolate candy contains very little Theobromine (the substance in chocolate that is toxic to dogs), eating chocolate can still make your dog sick - and no one wants that. Even candy that does not contain chocolate can upset your pet's stomach (causing gas, intestinal upset, or vomiting). So keep your candy stash out of reach of prying mouths! And if you live in a house with both cats & dogs like us, make sure that the cats cannot knock the candy on the floor for the dogs to eat!
Candles:
I may seems strange, but candles can also be a hazard to your pet - and your home! Many pets are intrigued by a candle flame and if they get too close, they can singe their whiskers - or worse. Wagging tails or curious cats have also been known to knock over ignited flames, starting a fire. So it is best to keep candles up high where no animals can reach them.
These few tips will help your entire household have a fun and spooky Halloween! So decorate, dress-up, eat candy, and have a ghoulish time!
Sunday, October 28, 2012
Wednesday, June 27, 2012
Fireworks and Dogs
Well, July 4th is just around the corner. We started to hear the "BOOMS" late last night. Luckily our current dogs are pretty oblivious to the sounds, but that has not always been the case in our house....
Here are some tips to help your four-legged friends survive the 4th:
1. Keep pets indoors when you are unable to supervise them. Wayward fireworks that land in your yard can hurt your pets or scare them Some dogs will even find a way to flee their safe, secure yard when frightened... The 5th of July is one of the busiest days for lost pet notices...
2. When you have BOOMS in your neighborhood, turn on a radio, tv, and/or fan to help create noise to drown the sounds. If your dog is sight-sensitive, shut the curtains or blinds, or hang a sheet over the window to hide the flashes.
3. Feed your dog early enough that you can allow them to go outside and potty before the fireworks start if possible. On the days of heavy fireworks in our area, we eat an early supper (before it is even close to being dark) and go to bed early. This makes it easier for the dogs to potty without the deluge of BOOMS. You may even want to take flight risk dogs outside on leash- even in your secure, fenced yard...
4. If your dog is nervous about fireworks (or thunder/lightening), allow them access to a crate if they are crate trained. Many dogs feel safer when in their crates. If you have a basement, your dog may feel more secure down there as well (the noise may be muffled). Observe your dog and use your judgement.
5. Talk to your vet BEFORE the 4th if you think your dog may react negatively to the noise. Your vet may prescribe some medication, and even if you do not need to use it, at least you will have the option should your dog react severely.
6. Be careful not to "baby" your dog - you don't want them to think that you are as scared as they are! Instead, work on some easy tricks (using yummy food) that your dog already knows. Give lots of praise for interacting with you, rather than being afraid of the noise outside.
Wishing you all a safe July 4th!
Saturday, March 10, 2012
An Aging Dog's Needs: Physical Exercise & Mental Stimulation
Every dog has needs. And as your dog ages, those needs can increase - and change. If you have an aging dog, are your meeting their needs?
I'm not talking about the basic (but very necessary) needs such as regular vets checks, senior blood panels to check for ailments, a quality diet, and added padding for their beds... I am talking about an aging dog's need for physical exercise (without added stress on their bodies) and quality mental stimulation.
As our four-legged companions age, it is our job as the dog's advocate to make sure that ALL their needs are met - that includes their physical AND mental needs.
Older dogs tend to develop aches, pains, arthritis, and other "aging" ailments, just like humans. But, an aging dog still needs physical & mental stimulation. Just like with humans, keeping your dog's mind sharp helps keep your dog young at heart, and wards off depression (yes, dogs get depressed too). And physical exercise allows your dog to loosen up stiff joints and ward off muscle atrophy.
While Fido may not be able to chase the ball across the yard the way he used to, you can still play with him with his favorite toy. Shorten the distance that you throw the toy, thereby shortening the distance that he has to run. This way, you can still play your favorite game for several repetitions before he gets too tired...
If you and your dog enjoy walks, maybe shorten the walk so your dog doesn't do too much. If you walk a path that includes hills, maybe find a path that is less extreme.
Teach your dog new tricks - shaking paw, spin, speak, finding a toy that you have hidden in the house, weaving between your legs, backing up, finding a treat that you have hidden in the house... the list goes on and on. Be creative and use your dog's natural skills & instincts to create new tricks! The key is to pick something that your dog can do without causing discomfort but still offers them a chance to stimulate their bodies & minds....
I'm not talking about the basic (but very necessary) needs such as regular vets checks, senior blood panels to check for ailments, a quality diet, and added padding for their beds... I am talking about an aging dog's need for physical exercise (without added stress on their bodies) and quality mental stimulation.
As our four-legged companions age, it is our job as the dog's advocate to make sure that ALL their needs are met - that includes their physical AND mental needs.
Older dogs tend to develop aches, pains, arthritis, and other "aging" ailments, just like humans. But, an aging dog still needs physical & mental stimulation. Just like with humans, keeping your dog's mind sharp helps keep your dog young at heart, and wards off depression (yes, dogs get depressed too). And physical exercise allows your dog to loosen up stiff joints and ward off muscle atrophy.
While Fido may not be able to chase the ball across the yard the way he used to, you can still play with him with his favorite toy. Shorten the distance that you throw the toy, thereby shortening the distance that he has to run. This way, you can still play your favorite game for several repetitions before he gets too tired...
If you and your dog enjoy walks, maybe shorten the walk so your dog doesn't do too much. If you walk a path that includes hills, maybe find a path that is less extreme.
Teach your dog new tricks - shaking paw, spin, speak, finding a toy that you have hidden in the house, weaving between your legs, backing up, finding a treat that you have hidden in the house... the list goes on and on. Be creative and use your dog's natural skills & instincts to create new tricks! The key is to pick something that your dog can do without causing discomfort but still offers them a chance to stimulate their bodies & minds....
Tuesday, March 6, 2012
Does Your Dog Speak Cat? Living With Cats & Dogs
Living with multiple cats & dogs in one household can be quite an experience... not because they don't get along, but because they get along SO WELL!
I am never sure who starts the game, but at least twice a day it sound like a herd of elephants are racing through the house. Depending on the rotation, it is either a cat chasing a dog or a dog chasing a cat. This is a favorite game with our pets, and they are all playing equally. It is really amusing to watch how the roles are then reversed so the chaser becomes the chasee. I marvel at how they 2 species have invented such a mutually enjoyed game!
Cats & dogs don't have to be enemies when living together. Our cats do not hide in fear of the dogs (in fact at night the cats & dogs will curl up and sleep together) - and we have young, high drive herding breeds with very high prey drive!
Our dogs do not "hunt" for cats to stare down and torment them with the "run, kitty, run!" look on their face. The dogs are not allowed to chase the cats with ill-intent, and the cats have always set boundaries for younger dogs on when and how any mutual games will be played.
Since our cats are smaller than our dogs, the dogs are taught to respect the cats from the moment they enter our house. We always make sure that the cats will not be harmed by an exuberant puppy by accident.
The key to having a harmonious household of cats & dogs is for the human to set up for success by being proactive rather than reactive...
Young puppies are monitored around the kitties, and we properly exercise the pups (mentally and physically) prior to being integrated with the cats. This helps take the edge off the dog's energy and prey drive. We also teach the puppy the joy of playing with toys so we can redirect their energy when needed. And of course, teaching the puppy basic obedience and manners helps as well!
Our cats also have higher-elevated areas to go when they want a break from sometimes-overly-friendly- dog-tongues. Everyone deserves their own space. The dogs all have crates and take Puppy Naps (see my previous post for more information on Puppy Naps!) - cats need the somewhere that is all their own, too. This also gives the older cats some peace and quiet when the "youngsters" are playing!
The circus must be in town... I hear elephants running down the hallway....
I am never sure who starts the game, but at least twice a day it sound like a herd of elephants are racing through the house. Depending on the rotation, it is either a cat chasing a dog or a dog chasing a cat. This is a favorite game with our pets, and they are all playing equally. It is really amusing to watch how the roles are then reversed so the chaser becomes the chasee. I marvel at how they 2 species have invented such a mutually enjoyed game!
Cats & dogs don't have to be enemies when living together. Our cats do not hide in fear of the dogs (in fact at night the cats & dogs will curl up and sleep together) - and we have young, high drive herding breeds with very high prey drive!
Our dogs do not "hunt" for cats to stare down and torment them with the "run, kitty, run!" look on their face. The dogs are not allowed to chase the cats with ill-intent, and the cats have always set boundaries for younger dogs on when and how any mutual games will be played.
Since our cats are smaller than our dogs, the dogs are taught to respect the cats from the moment they enter our house. We always make sure that the cats will not be harmed by an exuberant puppy by accident.
The key to having a harmonious household of cats & dogs is for the human to set up for success by being proactive rather than reactive...
Young puppies are monitored around the kitties, and we properly exercise the pups (mentally and physically) prior to being integrated with the cats. This helps take the edge off the dog's energy and prey drive. We also teach the puppy the joy of playing with toys so we can redirect their energy when needed. And of course, teaching the puppy basic obedience and manners helps as well!
Our cats also have higher-elevated areas to go when they want a break from sometimes-overly-friendly- dog-tongues. Everyone deserves their own space. The dogs all have crates and take Puppy Naps (see my previous post for more information on Puppy Naps!) - cats need the somewhere that is all their own, too. This also gives the older cats some peace and quiet when the "youngsters" are playing!
The circus must be in town... I hear elephants running down the hallway....
Friday, March 2, 2012
The Art Of Puppy Naps
Puppy Naps - that is what we call "alone time" in our household. In an active household of multiple dogs & cats, Puppy Naps give our dogs a much needed break from the rest of the pack. Puppy Naps allow our dogs to have peace and quiet, which allows them to truly unwind and relax.
Puppy Naps are not just for puppies - adult dogs benefit from naps as well. Khruiz, my 5 year old male Belgian Sheepdog, still takes Puppy Naps every day. While he enjoys being with the rest of the pack, he also gets grouchy if he doesn't get some time to himself. Every day, he asks to go to bed. He likes to lounge on my bed (this is also the only time he gets to hog the whole bed!). And throughout the day, our dogs crawl in to their crates (the doors are open during the day) to grab a quick nap when they need a break.
Puppy Naps also help young puppies learn that it is okay to be alone- that even though we (the humans and other dogs) are in the house, we don't all have to be together every waking moment. Teaching your puppy to be away from you also helps to deter separation anxiety.
When you are home, what is the percentage of time that your puppy (or dog) is in the same room with you? Do you find that your pup begins to panic if you step outside without them? Is your dog already starting to show signs of anxiety (excessive drooling, destructive behavior, barking, etc.) when you leave? It may be time to start instituting Puppy Naps in your house....
In the beginning, keep Puppy Naps short and stack the deck in your favor:
1. Make sure your pup has had mental and physical exercise (a tired puppy is less likely to fuss about being away from you).
2. Place the pup in a room that they are comfortable resting in (usually the room where they sleep at night). If your dog enjoys their crate, make it available to them.
3. Give them a new bone or toy - something that you feel safe leaving them with- that will occupy their minds. Remember that Puppy Naps does not mean they MUST sleep, just that they hang out by themselves. If your dog fusses, ignore them - going back to quiet them will only teach your dog that all they have to do is fuss, and you will magically appear!
4. Keep the naps short at first- 5 to 10 minutes if your dog is new to Puppy Naps. On days when you are home for several hours at a time, give your pup several short naps to help speed the learning process along.
5. It is important in the beginning that you stay in the house as well! If your dog is showing signs of separation anxiety, having you going outside can cause more anxiety - all while you are trying to show your dog that naps are good! Select a calm, quiet project to do while your puppy learns about naps, or take a short nap yourself!
As your dog becomes more comfortable with Puppy Naps, you can extend the nap time, wean off the bone or toy, and the increase the activities that you do during their naps. And you may find your puppy starts giving itself a self-appointed nap!
It's been a long day... I think I'll go take a Puppy Nap! ~ Katrina
Wednesday, February 29, 2012
Learning From a Bad Situation - Reporter Bitten in the Face by Dog
I just caught a short interview with the reporter that was bit in the face by a dog a few weeks ago. This short interview focused on her recovery - no mention of the dog...
The dog had been rescued after falling into a frigid lake after chasing a coyote. The dog's owner and the firefighter who rescued the dog were being interviewed by the reporter when the bite occurred.
While the reporter was injured - which is tragic- what concerns me is that the dog clearly gave many signals that he was uncomfortable in the situation. If someone had been paying attention, the bite could have been prevented. Now the reporter must endure surgeries to reconstruct her face, and the dog's life may be in jeopardy.
Now, hindsight is always 20/20, however when I first saw the initial report, it was clear that the dog was nervous and scared. Think about it- the dog had
1. Gotten itself stuck in a situation where it needed to be rescued (scary for the dog I am sure).
2. In the news room, this poor dog was surrounded by new people, lots of commotion, boom mikes, bright lights, and an entirely new surrounding (sensory overload).
3. The reporter - who is a stranger to this dog - is kneeling down right next to the dog- putting her face even with the dog's face (very threatening to most dogs).
4.Throughout the short interview, the dog is receiving "nervous petting" by the reporter and the owner (making the dog more anxious).
5. The dog is stress panting, licking his lips nervously, trying various avoidance tactics (moving head away from reporter, etc.), and clearly gives a warning snarl right before the reporter leans in to kiss the dog.
This poor dog was put in to a situation that he should have never been in. The owner was not being an advocate for the dog (which I believe is every owner's responsibility). No one was protecting the DOG and his needs.
So many things went wrong so quickly, and what amazes me is that this type of dog bite happens more and more often. So what can be done to prevent this situation? Teaching & Educating... The HUMANS!
Even the most well-mannered, friendliest dog can bite.
Most dog bites occur because humans have put themselves - and the dog - in a situation where the dog feels that he must defend himself. If the humans involved only recognized the warning signs from the dog, maybe there would be less dog bites...
So, what are some signs that it may not be wise to place your face near a dog that considers you a stranger? At no time - EVER - is it wise to put your face near a dog that you do not know. To me, it is like walking up to a stranger and kissing them on the cheek! Some people may slap you - because you invaded their personal space. Others may just yell at you. Dogs can do neither...
What about other warning signs that a dog may not be comfortable in a situation? A dog trying to pull away indicates that the dog is trying to avoid the situation. Stress yawning, excessive panting, lip licking, eye avoidance - all of these are indicators that a dog is uncomfortable.
We all love our dogs, but they are dogs, not humans. They cannot speak our human language, so it is the owner's responsibility to be their dog's advocate. If someone had recognized this dog's stress reactions and removed him from the situation, the bite could have been avoided. Please be an advocate for your dog.
The dog had been rescued after falling into a frigid lake after chasing a coyote. The dog's owner and the firefighter who rescued the dog were being interviewed by the reporter when the bite occurred.
While the reporter was injured - which is tragic- what concerns me is that the dog clearly gave many signals that he was uncomfortable in the situation. If someone had been paying attention, the bite could have been prevented. Now the reporter must endure surgeries to reconstruct her face, and the dog's life may be in jeopardy.
Now, hindsight is always 20/20, however when I first saw the initial report, it was clear that the dog was nervous and scared. Think about it- the dog had
1. Gotten itself stuck in a situation where it needed to be rescued (scary for the dog I am sure).
2. In the news room, this poor dog was surrounded by new people, lots of commotion, boom mikes, bright lights, and an entirely new surrounding (sensory overload).
3. The reporter - who is a stranger to this dog - is kneeling down right next to the dog- putting her face even with the dog's face (very threatening to most dogs).
4.Throughout the short interview, the dog is receiving "nervous petting" by the reporter and the owner (making the dog more anxious).
5. The dog is stress panting, licking his lips nervously, trying various avoidance tactics (moving head away from reporter, etc.), and clearly gives a warning snarl right before the reporter leans in to kiss the dog.
This poor dog was put in to a situation that he should have never been in. The owner was not being an advocate for the dog (which I believe is every owner's responsibility). No one was protecting the DOG and his needs.
So many things went wrong so quickly, and what amazes me is that this type of dog bite happens more and more often. So what can be done to prevent this situation? Teaching & Educating... The HUMANS!
Even the most well-mannered, friendliest dog can bite.
Most dog bites occur because humans have put themselves - and the dog - in a situation where the dog feels that he must defend himself. If the humans involved only recognized the warning signs from the dog, maybe there would be less dog bites...
So, what are some signs that it may not be wise to place your face near a dog that considers you a stranger? At no time - EVER - is it wise to put your face near a dog that you do not know. To me, it is like walking up to a stranger and kissing them on the cheek! Some people may slap you - because you invaded their personal space. Others may just yell at you. Dogs can do neither...
What about other warning signs that a dog may not be comfortable in a situation? A dog trying to pull away indicates that the dog is trying to avoid the situation. Stress yawning, excessive panting, lip licking, eye avoidance - all of these are indicators that a dog is uncomfortable.
We all love our dogs, but they are dogs, not humans. They cannot speak our human language, so it is the owner's responsibility to be their dog's advocate. If someone had recognized this dog's stress reactions and removed him from the situation, the bite could have been avoided. Please be an advocate for your dog.
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